conseils

The hen houseis not just where hens lay eggs. It is also a place of well-being for them.

So, before asking yourself about what you need for your hen house, it is important to understand the lifestyle of hens.To start, you need to know that they can live alone, but they prefer to live in groups. Like other species, there are rules of hierarchy and quarrels do happen because some are more assertive than others.  To make thiscohabitationsmooth, it is recommended to introduce the hens at the same age. This simultaneous introduction thus avoids the appearance of new germs.

Now let’s look at the hen house. Inside the hen house, the hens set up a system in which each one manages their own space. It is therefore essential for the hen house to be large enough in relation to the number of hens. On average, one hen requires 0.5 m² to 1 m².In terms of space, the main thing is to avoid over-population. Be careful: if the hens do not feel calm, they will not laycorrectly.

Now, let’s look at the orientation of the hen house. It mus be sheltered from draughtsbecause hens are very sensitive to wind.The entrances must be situated on the same side as the sun and to the south, to avoid exposure to the wind from the west. To avoid the appearance of illnesses or infections, ensure that the hen house is sufficiently airedand that it does not get damp. For the comfort of your hens and the appearance of your garden, Gasco has developed a practical designer hen housewhich meets these criteria and can be assembled in less than an hour.

But a hen house is only well designed if it is well protected! Hens are prey to outside predators  such as foxes and even sometimes your pet dogs, which see them as game. To avoid this, bring the hens inside the hen house over night. If necessary, install an electric fence.

To have lovely fresh eggs, the main thing is to have a healthy hen. Okay, but what is a healthy hen? A hen that does not have a cold, diarrhoea and whose feathers are not dirty. The condition of the plumage is essential because the feathers provide insulation from the cold in winter and from hot temperatures in summer. Plumage therefore keeps the hen in good health and tells us about their condition.

In your quest for lovely fresh eggs, you need to respect the hen’s laying habits. To lay, hens need a private nesting box which is not over-exposed to light. They are particularly sensitive to light and the alternance between day and night.

Once your egg has given you lovely fresh eggs, do not leave them in the nesting box for too long. Collect them daily, otherwise your hen will start to incubate them. For information, if a hen starts to incubate, you will not get chicks. Your need a cockerel to fertilise the egg and to have chicks. To come back to our lovely fresh eggs, collect them once or twice a day, but before 5pm because after this time, hens stop laying.Keep them at room temperature for sevreal weeks and enjoy them in a variety of ways.

In the wild, ducks live close to ponds or lakes. These bodies of water are a source of well-being and a source of food.

If you want to adopt ducks, you will need to reconstitute their natural environment as closely as possible. The first question to ask is whether it is compulsory to have a body of water. It is recommended, because the body of water is a factor of well-being for ducks. In summer, for example, it lets them have a dip and cool off. However, the body of water must be big enough. If this is not the case, it will quickly become dirty and illnesses and infections will appear. For these same health reasons, regularly change the water.

There are many species of small rodents: guinea pigs, hamsters, chinchillas, rats and miceare some.

Each of these species has its own character, behaviour and requirements. The guinea pig, for example, is a herbivore, while rats and mice are omnivores. There are many ready-made mixes available suitable for the needs of each one. Gasco proposes all-in-one mixesfor hamsters, chinchillas and guinea pigs, some of which comprise an assortment of seeds and cereals.

Lastly, concerning what to put in their cage, it isn’t very difficult. The cage has to be big enoughand must have sufficient feeders and troughs. Ensure that clean water is always available. Lastly, don’t hesitate to add little shelterswhere they can sleep, as well as some toys. As for their hygiene, choose good quality litter and change it regularly. Litter based on Gasco maize kernelsis naturally hypoallergenic to ensure better hygiene and comfort for your pet.

There are so many species of cage birds  and therefore a wide range of behaviours. Some bird species are more evolved than others, to the point that there are as many differences between them as between a rabbit and a dog. Over the years, some have even developed a form of intelligence allowing them to communicate with humans.

It is essential to consider the evolution of these birds if you want to adopt one. Here are a few recommendations that may help. First thing to know: cage birds are made to live in a couple or group.A cage bird that lives alone can quickly feel unhappy and will show it in different ways. For example, it might refuse to eat, or it might pull out its feathers. If it is your first adoption, opt for so-called classic species which are easier to look after. Among these examples start with canariesor budgerigars. This will give you the opportunity to observe cage birds. In fact, some birds, like the parrot, are expensive because they are said to be “sophisticated” and very intelligent. Concretely, these birds are complicated to keep because some situations lead to the appearance of disorders. For example, a parrot that lives alone can quickly become depressed and hurt itself. Parrots develop very complex relationships with each other, but also with humans.These relationships have a major impact on the behaviour and well-being of this type of bird. It is also important to know that these species live for a very long time, sometimes over the age of 40. Therefore, opt for birds which are easier to keep, which will confirm or not your decision to go on to adopt more complex species.

All farmed birds live together whether they’re male or female. This is especially so for chicks which all seem the same when born. They only start to look different when they reach sexual maturity. Cockerels have their own look, with a bright red comb, wattles and shimmering coloured feathers. At the same time, they also start crowing and become aggressive. Once a cockerel finds a perch, he utters his relentless morning call and becomes the chief of the hen house. The cockerel obviously plays a key role if you want hens to have chicks. Having a cockerel around also provides some authority and a sense of protection in the hen house. However, if you find his crowing gets on your nerves, you can do without him. Having hens doesn’t necessarily mean you need cockerels too!

Rabbits are so easy to keep that there are almost no down-sides to having one, just advantages.
The first advantage is peace and quiet. Despite what you might think, rabbits don’t shriek. So, you won’t be woken up in the middle of the night by their cries. The other (pretty big) advantage is hygiene. You don’t need to walk a rabbit! You might not know that rabbits eat some of their pellets. This is perfectly normal. This is called cecotrophy, which means a second digestion. This behaviour is perfectly normal as rabbits absorbs all the nutrients they ingested first time around in this second digestive phase. Rabbits do, however, need litter in their cages to keep it clean. Gasco has developed litter from 100% compostable maize kernels. Rabbit litter can be used as a soil fertilizer. You can grow great fruits and vegetables with this compost and your rabbit will love the peelings too. In fact, your rabbit gives you the chance to set up a virtuous, ecological circle.

Rabbits have a sensitive digestive system, much like that of a horse. This concept of a “system” is vital when feeding rabbits.
Nevertheless, rabbits love their food and their tastes for nice things can sometimes backfire on them, with occasional risks of obesity or digestive problems.
For their diet, you have the choice. You can give them all-in-one foods, or mixes mainly containing cereals, such as oats, barley and wheat. Give them hay too as they need fibre to digest properly. In addition, chewing occupies them and stops them getting bored. You can also give them fruit and vegetable peelings. It is really important to give your rabbit a balance between pellets and fibre when feeding it every day. It’s all a question of habit and regularity with rabbits. You should avoid changing its daily diet and portion sizes. The basic principle to heed is feed them regularly. Another piece of advice is not to leave food out all day, but to feed it in the morning and in the evening. If not, it’ll lose his appetite. In terms of quantities, it is best to give rabbits 20 to 40 grammes of pellets per kilogramme, which you can supplement with some hay. Dwarf rabbits need 20 to 50 grammes a day while larger breeds need 100 to 300 grammes.

Chicks quickly find their feet in the hen house. Their behaviour and physical traits mean that they can quickly blossom in the ‘adult’ world.
For chicks, everything happens before the egg hatches. It has to prove itself even inside its shell. Chicks need 21 days to develop inside their eggs. Laying hens are important as they provide the warmth and moisture than the chick needs. Did you know that if you listen carefully to the egg on the 18th day, you can already hear it cheep. Then three days later, the tip of its beak finally appears! It takes chicks 30 minutes to 4 hours to emerge from their eggs. What happens once the chick emerges from its shell? Well, quite simply, it leaves the nest and starts getting acquainted with everyday life.

5 tips to look after your hens. This will tell you everything about their personalities and give you tips so they stay healthy and happy, including behaviour, pecking, perches, delousing and health.
The relationship between people and hens is one of these surprises. It is an important part in the daily lives of your hens. Although you can form a relationship with a hen, they don’t necessarily let themselves be stroked. Nevertheless, you can grow fond of hens. Children quickly become attached to hens, especially when they feed them. These shared moments are vital and with company too. They do everyone good as they lend themselves to family moments and to nurturing a taste for rural life. Above all, these moments bring your children into contact with hens and their rules. So, when you feed them, it’s really important that the hens get used to your presence and recognise you afterwards.

Just like us, hens find some positions more comfortable than others, to be content and happy.
And, surprising as it may seem, this comfort comes from finding a place to balance. So, there is a normal, rational explanation when you see objects raised off the floor in hen houses. The simple fact to be on a perch give hens a sense of security and peace. Indeed, once a hen is up high, it can protect itself from predators. Did you know that hens can sleep on a perch and not lose their balance? If you see a hen on a perch asleep, please don’t move it as you will expose it to more danger than before. In addition to the safety aspect, hens find perching comfortable and relaxing. Rest assured then, that your hens are not planning to escape, but rather spend some well-earned time relaxing.

One day, perhaps, you might see that your hen is not looking so bright and breezy.
You should then ask yourself a few questions. Firstly, don’t get unnecessarily worried. Very often, feeling a bit feeble and lethargic is down to their surroundings and can be resolved by making some changes. Sometimes, when they don’t feel so well, this can create slight behavioural issues. But, you shouldn’t view these situations as a danger. They actually tell you about the state of your hen’s health. Unusual behaviour can come in the form of refusing to eat or drink, to be alone, or to be aggressive towards others hens, or even self-harm. But, don’t panic and rush to any hasty conclusions, observe their behaviour over time. Clearly, you must keep a close eye on trouble, but only when a recurring pattern sets in! It is only harmful to a hen’s health when its troubled behaviour become repetitive. Once the problem has been identified, you can deal with it yourself, or by calling a vet. Behavioural changes can be down to the wrong food, too little space or a lack of hygiene. You can provide solutions to these types of problems. But if it is more complicated, don’t hesitate to call specialists that can help you. Once the problem has been treated, keep a close eye on the tiniest detail that might be a triggering factor. Calm will return once more to the hen house and you can sleep peacefully too.